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Friday 30^th July

Miners Pool

Today was a longer day for us, heading back from Kalumburu to Miner’s Pool to camp the night.  This was mainly due to the rough and corrugated road conditions, although a grader had been working on the road so some sections were ok.  We eventually pulled into Miner’s Pool about 3ish  and set up.  It was decided that a video evening was on the cards so we agreed to watch ‘Shutter Island’ - introducing three cameo parts from Glenn!  Steve Yates had downloaded the movie and edited into it some funny snippets of Glenn.  Tricia couldn’t quite “get it” at first. “Is that Glenn?  What is he doing in the movie?”  We all had lots of laughs. The movie was reaching its climax when the computer battery went flat and we left wondering how it would finish.  We would have to wait until tomorrow!

Saturday 31^st July

Boab camp - Barnett Gorge

We left Miner’s Pool and travelled 150km to Barnett Gorge.  We had been told there was no more free camping at the gorge, but having been there before and not prepared to follow that advice, we ventured in.  The road in was narrow with lots of deep wash a ways and slow, but we discovered you actually could camp and found the most idyllic site under the biggest and most amazing old Boab tree we had seen. It was so gnarled and magnificent.  We had to stop.  After setting up, we ventured a short driving distance to the gorge and walked in.  It was not a big walk in to the gorge area – only about 200 metres to one part   where we saw trees filled with fruit bats.  The smell as you approached the area let us know they would be there.  Walking on a little further we reached the base of the gorge and had a swim.  The swim at the end of these walks was the reward we always looked forward too.  It may not be one of the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley’s, but it is a lovely spot to cool off – and it was a very warm afternoon.

Bats at Barnett Gorge

We headed back to camp and had what we thought would a delicious Thai Green Curry made with some of the fish that was caught in Kalumburu.  The curry was actually absolutely delicious – at least seven of us thought so.  Unfortunately Steve M found it very hot and thought his lips were burning off.  He was also worried about the affect it would have on his system the following day!  He was good natured about it, but told Helen they would never be having it again!

A swim in Barnett Gorge

Under the truly majestic shadows of the Boab tree, and the warm stillness of those Kimberley nights we had become accustomed too, we watch the end of ‘Shutter Island’ – good movie for those who haven’t seen it and then watched ‘Ban Nue Dae’.  How so very appropriate was that?  A terrific movie set in Perth for parts, but Broome and the Kimberley region for the most, that had us all laughing and singing along and left with a fabulous ‘feel good’ feeling.  It was a brilliant ending to a lovely day.

Sunday 1^st August

The day got to an interesting start when a snake longer than six foot decided to make its way through our camp site heading towards Marie and Kevin’s camper – probably looking for some shade.  We suspected it to be a King Brown – very venomous and unfortunately for safety purposes, Kevin had to dispatch it.

We arrived 37 km down the track to Mt Barnett Roadhouse and then in to Manning Gorge to camp.  The afternoon was spent doing ‘house work’ and odd jobs with the plan to walk into the gorge in the morning.

A little rain and overcast conditions all day.  Windy evening.

Monday 2^nd August

The day broke still overcast and some intermittent spitting rain, but nothing to stop us!

Paula at Manning Gorge

Glenn - Guess what he was doing?

The walk into the gorge started with a small punt ride across a 50mtr stretch of water before a climb to the gorge.  The punt worked on a system of ropes to pull you across the water.  Lots of fun.   The walk to the falls is a relatively easy 2km return trip. On our previous trip we followed rock cairns to the gorge floor, but these have been replaced with painted white arrows that in places towards the end of the walk were not very easily found, but the walk was easy.  There had been a recent fire through the area, so shade was limited and we were quite pleased it was a cooler day.  Finally after a climb down the gorge edge, we reached the pool at the bottom.  Again, in our previous trip the falls were rushing with water and incredibly spectacular.  The time however, we had been warned that they weren’t falling and so we found the small trickle splashing down the rocky escarpment to the large pool a little disappointing, but a swim was called for none the less.  The water was cool, but not cold and we swam under the small fall area and then onto the opposite bank and climbed up the rocky area alongside the running water.  The years of immense water pressure and flow over the rocks has left the surface incredibly smooth, shiny in places, and the colours and patterns in the rock are unbelievable. The walk back was fun and the rest of the day was spent doing our own thing – Paula caught up with this blog!!!

Tuesday 3^rd August

In all we only travelled 120km today, but we packed a lot in to it!

Galvan's Gorge

We left Manning Gorge and headed the short distance (14km!) to Galvan’s Gorge. It is not a big expansive gorge like Manning, but beautiful.  From the car park it is a 1.2km walk to the main pool of Galvans Gorge. It is a lovely swimming spot and there is some Aboriginal art that can be found under an overhang on the far right side. It is also a small and some lovely people we keep crossing paths with, Lee and Ross – who we first met at Home Valley, bumped in to us again.  It is nice to see familiar faces as you travel.

Steve, Paula, Steve M, Kevin and Marie got wet. The water was lovely. There is a short swim to the opposite side of the pool where water was pouring down from the top of the gorge.  We both sat under the water and let it splash over us.  The water coming down from the top of the gorge was actually quite warm which was a surprise, but given it is pouring over large expanses of sun warmed rock, it should have been expected.  This is an incredibly picturesque gorge.  At the top of the gorge close to where the water falls is another fantastic Boab.  It just seems to sit there surveying everything that is happening around and below.  We both count this gorge as one of our favourites.

Moving on from Galvan’s, we travelled 19km to Adcock Gorge through more wonderful landscapes. A short walk from the car park saw us at the gorge.  Like Galvans, it is small.  Lovely rocky gorge walls saw Glenn happily exploring. The surprise and highlight of this gorge was when a medium sized fresh water crocodile popped his head out of the water in the middle of the pool.  No-one had planned to swim and surprisingly after seeing this, no-one did!  We are not surprised that the gorges hold fresh water crocodiles and we swim in the water, but this gorge is small and was not running and the crocodile almost seemed out of place.   We left him in peace, but not before a group small group of people with three dogs came in and we suggested they drop one of the dogs into the pool to see what happens.  The people laughed thankfully. We do wonder though what signs with NO DOGS on them actually mean to some people though!  This is not the place to take your pet.

Adcock Gorge (Panorama)

A short drive down the Gibb River Road saw us stop at Imintji Community Roadhouse, run by the Imintji Aboriginal Community.  We all grabbed a bite to eat in the form of ice-cream, scones, pies, toasted sandwiches or coffee before we continued our journey towards Silent Grove which is the campsite for Bell Gorge.  Silent Grove is situated 19 kms from thew main road.

The happy couple

Silent Grove campsite was very busy and eventually we were all set up – alongside Ross and Lee!  Another lovely Kimberley evening followed, sitting around the campfire chatting to people and having a little to drink!  We will so miss these nights.

Around the campfire at Silent Grove

Wednesday 4^th August

We packed up our campers and left them at the campsite and drove the 10kms to the car park at the gorge.  There was a short 1km walk from the car park to the top of the waterfall.  The lovely ranger (agreed by all ladies!)  Andre, had told us the night before that water at Bell Gorge runs all year round.  He was right.  Bell Gorge is simply stunning and so pretty.  Following a walking track past lovely Boab trees sees you descend the gorge wall to the pool. The sheer cliff gives way to more of a sloping slab of rock where you can rock hop your way down.  The walk is not difficult, but care as always needed to be taken climbing over these boulders and rocks.

Bell Gorge Falls

The group at Bell Gorge

Some gorgeous photos were taken and then Steve M, Helen, Glenn and Tricia joined us swim to the falls and splash around a bit before moving to a small rocky ledge and sit in the sun for a while before the swim back to our belongings where Kevin and Marie were sitting soaking up the sunshine.  A group photo was taken in front of the beautiful backdrop of Bell Gorge.  Guess who we bumped into again?  Ross and Lee.

Steve at Lennard Gorge

We collected our campers and headed to Lennard Gorge which is 20km south of the Silent Grove turn off.  Lennard Gorge is 5km long, carved out by the Lennard River and creating spectacular sheer vertical cliffs and deep pools.  The gorge is 7km from the Gibb River Turn off and the road in was good – we had heard it was not.

Marie decided not to walk into this one and the rest of us headed in.  After reaching the top part of the gorge, Kevin went back to wait with Marie and we headed on.  The authorities do not encourage walking down to the pools as there have been 2 recent deaths – 1 was a heart attack and the other fell.  A viewing platform has been built - we ignored that and went down the very steep and rocky track.  Tricia had a fall and grazed her leg, but thankfully was ok to go on.  The gorge walls reach about 150mtrs of which 80mtrs of it saw us climbing down on narrow ledges to the base.  The falls were a small trickle – again a little disappointing as we have seen them rushing, but a swim was enjoyed by all before a careful climb back to the car park.

It was 3.30pm by the time we collected some firewood for the night and we pulled into a small area – Apex Creek about 7 kms from the Lennard Gorge turn off.  It was a lovely private little area that we fitted into beside a small creek.

Tea was pizza!   It was enjoyed by all.  We used the Cobb and a Hill Billy to cook them.  Who says you can’t eat pizza when you go camping?

Thursday 5^th August

We are famous!

Departing at 9.00am we turned off the Gibb River Road and reached Windjana Gorge about 11.00am  Finding a good site, we began to set up and were then told by the Ranger that we were camping in  a ‘Tour Operator Area Only’ and would have to move. Who didn’t read the signs?  Well, there were signs, but they are not positioned well at all and the Ranger was told.  We moved along with Glenn and Tricia, but Kevin, Marie, Steve M and Helen stayed – their campers were to one side a little and were waiting to see if they would be told to move on tomorrow.  Apparently Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest for tourist buses and spaces would be needed.  It is important to point out that the site we were in was enormous and another equal in size ‘Tour Operator Area’ was not far from this one.  The total area for tour operators was at least half the park.

Paula and Tricia entering Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge local

Eventually we were settled, had lunch and we set out with Tricia and Glenn to walk the 7km return journey down the gorge.  The gorge is picturesque and narrow, cut by the Lennard River through the Napier Range which was once a coral reef.  The river flows for short periods during the wet season and during most of the year water is found in isolated pools.  These pools contains fish and freshwater crocodiles.  There is a lot of history to this area.  The gorge formed the boundaries between the Unggumi and Bunaba aboriginal tribes. ‘Jandamarra’ or ‘Pigeon’ a Bunaba Aboriginal began a war against white settlers and this culminated in the killing of a Police Constable in October 1894.  This area was used as he hid from the police over a 3 year period. 

We were told that a film crew was going to be in the area the following day filming a documentary about Jandamarra and it would be screened later this year or early next year on ABC.

Flying fox

Windjana boab

Anyway, the walk through the gorge was enjoyable.  We were able to spot fossils in the walls of the gorge as you enter it and shells in the rock walls a reminder that this was a reef.  We passed some fresh water crocodiles sunning themselves or lazily floating or swimming in the pools, walked past a 30 metre stretch of the gorge where trees along the waterline were filled with bats (you smell them before you see them,) saw a wallaby and finally came to the end of the gorge simply signed ‘End of Trail’ and lots of plastic tape with “Do Not Enter” printed on it.   While we enjoyed the walk, the end was a let down!  We trekked back to camp and prepared for tea.

The end of the line!

Steve M befriended a couple from France, Peter and Nicole, whose Hertz rental 4WD from Broome had sustained a broken clutch system.  They had rung Broome and another replacement vehicle would be sent out.  Because of the legal agreement with this hire company, they were not to drive at night time.  The couple had booked into Mt Hart for that night and knew they were not going to make it.  They only had a few crackers and cheese and had not eaten since the morning. They were invited to have tea with us as we had plenty and we were able to supply them with pillows and blankets for a sleep in their car for the night.  The replacement car arrived about 6.30pm and the truck driver promptly and speedily reversed it into the ‘Tour Operator Area Only’ sign we hadn’t seen that morning!!!!!!  The bumper at the back was damaged but the sign was perfect.  The couple were not having a good run. Peter, who had very good English didn’t seem that phased, but Nicole whose English was not strong appeared a little more stressed.  So with another 2 couples we met from Bordertown S.A. they shared tea with us around our campfire, listened to us and we chatted away to them.  They had flown to Sydney, spent some time there before moving to Alice Springs and Uluru then Perth then Broome and were heading eventually to Cairns before flying back to France. They were a nice couple.  Goodness knows what they honestly thought of our goings on, but we tried to behave!  They departed for bed and were leaving early the next morning as they had to get to Mornington Wilderness Camp.

Friday 6^th August

Well you won’t believe it!  Peter and Nicole did leave early the next day.  Steve M who had witnessed the truck driver reversing into the sign wanted to help by giving them his contact details in case there was trouble for them when they returned the vehicle.   “Not a  problem,” said Peter, “I have my assistant dealing with it.  Thankyou for your help. If you come to France, please contact me.”  “O.k.” says Steve, “Nice bloke.”    Peter left Steve M with his business card and it wasn’t until after he left Steve read the card.  Who was Peter?   Only the Director of Engineering for Airbus!.   He probably has shares in Hertz.    We had a good laugh.  This would be talking point for them when they are back in France around a dinner table we were sure!

Paula and a freshie!

Filming Jandamarra's War

We got up at 7.00am and decided to go back to the river area to have another look at the crocodiles.  On the way we discovered the film crew busy and ready to film parts of the Jandamarra story.  We walked to the river and on the way back to camp, stopped to watch them film.  So many crew. Interesting to watch them at work.  Make- up ladies carrying out last minute touches to actors so they looked dirty and authentic.  Costumes missing or incorrect, boots swapped and shared.  Good fun to watch.   We look forward to seeing it on TV.

After a cooked breakfast we thought we would head to Lillimilura Police Station Ruins then Tunnel Creek and be back by lunch probably!    Famous last words.

Paula at Lillimilura Springs

We headed towards the ruins that are a few kms east of the gorge. Lillimilura was established as a sheep property and later became a police outpost and setting for the Pigeon saga.  All that remains are ruins, but Steve M had been told about some springs at the base of the range so we went investigating and did find them in a small cave.  The cave system in the range must be extensive because shining torches into the cave sees a labyrinth of passages and small openings.  We headed back to the cars and onto Tunnel Creek.

We didn’t get far.  We stopped to help a couple whose bumper and roo bar had fallen off their car.  They needed help to pull it to pieces so they could transport it for repairs.  Our 4 ‘Dodgy Brothers” were out as quick as a flash with crescents and spanners pulling it to pieces.  After some time, job finished off we set again. 

We didn’t get far.  About 3 km down the track we again stopped.  A young couple had a broken bracket holding the spring to the axel. Dodgy Brothers to the rescue again – but no U bolt to carry out a repair.  As luck would have it a wonderful man passing by did have one – that fit!!!!!   Amazing! And repairs were done.  This couple had had a bad run of break downs and quite honestly, we think they were just so thankful that someone took over and helped!   We have all decided that most problems with cars occur due to speed and incorrect tyre pressure.

We did get to Tunnel Creek which is only 30km from Windjana and was also Pigeon’s hideout.  Walking through the tunnel is an experience.  It is only about 750mtrs long and not accessible during wet seasons.  Once inside the tunnel the walk is relatively easy but you will get wet.  The water is quite cold and at its highest was about a metre in the section we walked it.  It was deeper in other sections.  You need a torch to walk through the tunnel to see where you are going, but also to look around at the stalactites, stalagmites and rock formations.  There are little fish and scampi that can be seen in the water and many bats on the roof of the cave.   It was quite busy in the tunnel with people coming and going.  At the end we had a snack before heading back to the car park and camp.

Tunnel Creek - Half way

Would you believe it?  Heading back, Glenn leading the way, he radioed to us that he was stopping to see if he could help a couple with a smashed rear windscreen!    As it turns out, they were Swedish, had reversed into tree and didn’t need our help!  Good.

A welcome drink, tea and chat a round the campfire with the 2 couples from Bordertown ended a very interesting day.

Saturday 7^th August

Last morning together.  Kevin and Marie are moving on to Barn Hill for a couple of days before heading home and the rest of us at stopping at Derby overnight to do some washing and just stop to top up supplies.   We left Windjana at 8.00am and stopped at the Gibb River Road Mt Barnett road sign for a final photo of the whole group and an apron shot with Steve Y, Steve M and Glenn.  It was a fun photo!

The end of the road

The boys and their aprons!

Arriving at Derby, we were able to get three powered sites at Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park next to each other.  Kevin and Marie had been to the shop and popped in to say their farewells.  Washing and blogging and shopping during the afternoon saw us sit down for final drinks about 5pm.  Who should turn up?   Lee and Ross.  Another couple Lee and Ross had met joined us for several hours.  After they had left we had a late tea and then Steve M decided to bring out the Chivers Regal Scotch.  What a fun evening it was, pity it w as our last.  Just after midnight, with the plans to leave early the following day fading, we all went to bed.  What a lot of laughs! 

Sunday 8^th August.

With memories of last night still in our mind, we awoke and decided we would get moving – soon.

Helen and Steve had decided to stay an extra night in Derby before heading to Broome for 4 or 5 days then back to Port Hedland to visit and stay with their son Tristan before heading home.  They were also catching up with Ross and Lee later that day at the local Derby Rodeo and then go out to tea.

Glenn and Tricia would be heading to Port Smith.  The turn off is about 80km south of Roebuck Roadhouse on Great Northern Highway   There is then a  20 km road into Port Smith..  They will stay there a couple of days before heading home.

De Grey camp site

We headed as far south as we could towards Port Hedland with the hope of being able to get to Coral Bay Monday afternoon to stay there for a few days.  After a long day on the road we found (eventually) a lovely camp site at the De Grey River.  It was our first night camping alone for the whole trip.  Whilst we enjoyed the solitude and time together we also missed the company of our friends around the camp fire.

Monday 9^th to Wednesday 11^th August

Today was a long day travelling in the car.  We were up early and on the go by about 7.30am heading for Port Hedland where we wanted to wash the worst of the dust off the car and Quantum.  They both REALLY looked like they had been off the road.  We made it safely to South Hedland and found the car wash.  $40 later both vehicles looked better.  They were not perfect, but at least now we could touch them without ending up with red dust on us.

The rest of the day was spent chugging towards Coral Bay.  We finally arrived at about 4.30pm to find the place packed out!  People’s Caravan Park had no vacancies until Friday and Bayview looked similar.  (Grey Nomads where everywhere!)  Fortunately there had been a cancellation just before we arrived at Bayview so we were able to secure a powered site for the night.  Unfortunately we had to move on Tuesday to an unpowered site, but we decided this was better than nothing.

The winds over the last couple of days have been very strong, (in the mornings at least) easing off in the afternoon/evening.  As we were staying here for a further two nights once we moved we set up a little more fully and found that the wind was not a big issue.  It limited our morning activities but we were able to venture out in the afternoons.

Coral Bay is still a pretty (albeit busy) place.  It has changed a little since we were last here – perhaps the biggest change being the increase in big vans and the absence of campers and tents.  The Grey Nomads really do take over the North of our state during winter.  The number of them is difficult to fathom!

We enjoyed a lovely seafood platter for dinner on the Tuesday evening at the Bayview Restaurant as a sort of celebration as our trip comes to a close.

Coral Bay sunset

On Thursday we plan to head south, camping just north of Geraldton and then we intend to arrive home on Friday ready for football on Saturday and work on Monday.

We have cherished our little adventure and have probably fallen further in love with the Kimberley.  It is a majestic place – but don’t tell anyone – we want to keep it quiet!  The car and Quantum performed admirably.  We are more than happy with our new van and now feel more than confident to take it anywhere.  Everything worked well and the interior stayed completely clean and dust free!

Sharing our trip with 3 other couples was also a highlight.  Living communally has its difficulties, however we believe that everyone travelling with us added something to our enjoyment that we wouldn’t have found otherwise.  The evenings sitting around the campfires under starry skies will stay with us forever.

Until our next adventure!!!!!!