Monday 2nd August
Ok, time to catch up and let you know what we have been doing and where we have been. We have been out of internet range since the last posting on July 17th, so apart from the few public phones we have found and used to “Phone Home!” we have been unable to keep things up to date for those following us on this blog.
So, let us fill you in.
Sunday 18th July
We stayed at Parry Creek Farm which is near Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. (36,000ha) This is a wetlands area about 15km south east of Wyndham and is an oasis. We enjoyed our campsite beside magnificent Boab trees and played silly games during the warm evening- this highly intelligent game involved careful balancing of two corona bottles – (empty of course!) on top of each other with a $5 note sandwiched between the bottles. The aim was to pull out the note without the bottles falling over. Well, needless to say, after several hours of this highly stressful game, no-one was successful! We will try again another night!
Nearby we visited Marlgu Billabong. It is an amazing place and the birdlife is incredible. Bird hides have been erected and information panels to help you identify the abundant birdlife in, on and around the lagoon. We even spotted a crocodile floating around in the lagoon.
During the afternoon we drove along the old Kununurra – Wyndham road near the Ord River and stopped to look at a campsite on the river. Steve and Glenn had seen this campsite when they went on their fishing charter from Kununurra and thought it looked like a nice spot. It was. No facilities at all, but what a great place to stop and just fish, read, of spend time spotting crocodiles! We will keep that one in mind for another camping trip. Paula could have stayed and just watched the crocodiles.
Monday 19th July
Happy 56th Birthday to Glenn!
We left Parry Lagoon and headed to El Questro. We were hoping for one of the private campsites that are available and while we were offered two, one was way too small and the other was great, but a long way from everything and what a slow bumpy trip to get in and out of. We decided to stay in the ‘town site’ in the camping area. El Questro was so busy. So much traffic moving in out and about AND leaving dust everywhere. We had a very friendly, persistent and large Monitor lizard that would come through the campsite in a slow and sleepy manner, stopping to check you out before moving on. We also had a small herd of Brahman cows and a rather aggressive bull wandering through the camp. Steve Myers decided to take the bull on as we headed towards “Happy Hour” one evening. The bull turned to him ready to charge, Steve Yates went behind a tent (not sure if that would stop a bull!), Paula just stood still thinking it would be more frightened of us than we are of him, the others ran and Steve Myers just hoped the bull wouldn’t charge. It didn’t, but it was an animal to watch and make sure you were a distance from him. The scenario would have made a very funny video.
We celebrated Glenn’s birthday in the “Steakhouse Restaurant” with his daughter and son-in-law who were also at El Questro that night. It was a lovely evening.
Tuesday 20th July
You have to go to Zebedee Springs at El Questro!!!!!! Hot thermal springs amongst glorious palms. What a great way to stop, relax and spend time.
Tricia and Glenn spent the day with their family and so Steve and Helen joined us and went to Moonshine Gorge. It was quite a hot walk into the Gorge. It was over river stones which we unstable underfoot. We made it in and Steve M and Paula had a quick swim before heading back – Paula falling over and taking a chunk out of her knee!
We only had time for a quick change of clothes when we got back before we were due on the Chamberlain River Cruise. This took us down the Chamberlain River (naturally!) where the gorge wall were a magnificent orange red and the country in this area estimated at 1.68billion years old. Champagne and fresh fruit was served on this very gentle and dreamy ride. Paula decided she would like the job of the tour guide on this cruise.
The day concluded after happy hour at “Buddy’s Bar’. You could get used to this life!
Wednesday July 21st
Brilliant walk today. We headed to the El Questro Gorge. We had been told on the cruise the day before that it was the best walk at El Q. So off we went. It had been marked as a BLUE walk – which simply means a degree of fitness is required with some difficulty. It wasn’t a hard walk really, just very rocky. The walk we were told was fine until half way, when you come across a boulder that if you are able to climb over, you should continue the walk. We all came to the half way mark and Kevin and Marie opted not to go any further. The rest of us continued. This section of the walk is classified RED. This required a good level of fitness as the path was difficult. Yes it was difficult in parts. At times we were helping (pulling/pushing) each other over sections. (the ladies!) Other times we were climbing up the gorge walls for sections where the foot spacing was the size of your boots and hand grips a necessity. So many large boulders to climb up and over and between. We swam through water sections and finally came to the end. To say it was worth it is a total understatement. It was magnificent. The gorge walls are very high, but it comes to a narrow ending where a water fall splashes into a beautiful water hole. It wasn’t very big, but cool, shady, crystal clear and wonderful. The water falling on you stings your skin, but you can sit under the water and just enjoy the experience of completing this walk. We were all exhilarated by the whole walk and the way back was lots of fun and laughter. It really was fantastic.
Thursday July 22nd
We left El Q and headed over the Pentecost River to Home Valley. The River was a little disappointing compared to our last visit. The level seemed lower, but none the less, the drive through he Cockburn ranges to the river is spectacular and not to be missed.
Home Valley is located near the junction of Bindoola Creek and the Pentecost River. It is a 700,000 acre station owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation. It caters not only for travellers like us, but also for indigenous students and trainees from many communities across the Kimberley. Skills based programs run throughout the dry season delivering tuition in fencing, welding, concreting, tourism, horsemanship, stock handling and other practical skills. Home Valley has changed so much in 4 years since we were last there. It is amazing! So much greenery, trees, landscaping, swimming pool, “Dusty Bar”, big playgrounds and a variety of accommodation. We went to the bush camping site on the Pentecost River where the scenery across the Cockburn Ranges is one of the most scenic and idyllic locations in the Kimberley. After setting up camp, we decided to go to the Dust Bar for lunch – Steve had spotted on the menu Salt and Pepper Squid. Steve and Helen, Kevin and Marie came with us and we ended a lovely lunch and booked in for all of us to come back for tea the following night. On our return we noticed a man cycling on the road way. We thought he was mad! Upon our return however, Glenn and Tricia informed us that the mad cyclist was actually the chef at the restaurant and that we were to be “Guests of the Chef” the following night! Glenn and Tricia had chatted to him as he came through the campsite and he must have decided they were nice people!
The Pentecost River would be very unforgiving if you fell in! Steep, slippery, dark, deep, grey, muddy embankments that were you to fall in, we are not sure you could get out. The crocodiles we saw made you think twice about getting too close to the edge and the power of those reptiles would get you long before you climb the bank. Glenn as usual went fishing – no luck, and we all went croc spotting at night. Great fun!
Steve lost his glasses!
Friday 23rd July
We woke up and all except Glenn and Tricia decided to go to Emma Gorge.
We never made it! Steve M got a puncture – actually a huge tear in his rear left tyre. We stopped to change it and found the key wouldn’t unlock the spare tyre. We tried all sorts of sprays to clean the lock. Eventually, Kevin asked if he could try the ignition key. Guess what? Steve M had given us the wrong key! The ignition key unlocked the spare tyre lock perfectly. Steve M won’t live that one down for a while. We went back to camp and used our R&R Bead Breaker to remove the damaged tyre and replace the rim with a new tyre. That job done, Steve Yates discovered that the axillary battery mount had a crack in it and the battery was starting to wobble and would cause damage if not fixed, so we went in to Home Valley and were told the welder/mechanic was at lunch – come back in an hour. So we went to lunch again!!! The welder, Dan, was helpful and did all he could, but in the end he was not convinced it would hold as the metal he was welding onto was thin and not the best. It was the best we could expect, but we were not confident either as we knew the roads we were about to enter were not good, but at least we could continue our trip.
Going out to tea that night was the best time ever! Were we the guests of the chef? We were.
Our table was moved to a better area near the entertainment, we ordered our meals and during the evening we were showered with large servings and bowls of garlic bread, salads, vegetables, extra chips (that we gave to another table – we just couldn’t eat it all) and an enormous cheese platter. The meals served were outstanding. The steaks superb and Paula had prawns in garlic and chilli with a mango sauce. Fourteen enormous shelled prawns in the most delicious tasting sauce ever with a huge side of salad and chips – let alone all the salads and chips already on the table! The entertainment was an aboriginal playing the dijeredoo and another aboriginal singing with a guitar – who as it turned out Marie taught in Wyndham as a Year 1 teacher all those years ago.
Tricia and Helen found Steve’s glasses – broken frame but found on the ground where our camp fire was. Oh well.
What a lovely, lovely night!
Saturday 24th July
Today saw us leave Home Valley and head to Miners Pool near Drysdale River Homestead. On the way we stopped at a lookout about 2 km from Home Valley. This is the place Hugh Jackman kissed Nicole Kidman in the movie Australia. The view was lovely. It was also the only spot for kilometres where you could get phone reception! Lots of calls and messages sent from here!!!
Stopped at Bindoola Gorge a further 10-12 km from the lookout. Very short walk. Very pretty pool.
Also stopped at Ellanbrae station where you can get scones, jam and cream and a cuppa. We had a toasted sandwich instead!!!
Turning off the Gibb River Road we headed the 52 km to Drysdale Station for refuelling and headed a further 5 km to Miners Pool bush camp.
The road conditions were very rough and very corrugated – the welds held!
CAR DAMAGE REPORT
YATES – Touch wood! Welds held
MYERS – spot lights very loose. Removing them showed that there were cracks forming on the roo bar where the lights were attached... Electric brake cables under the Jayco camper dislodged. Car 2 Way aerial cracked. Repairs to cable and aerial carried out and fixed.
EDWARDS Quantum toilet system maintained a crack. Glenn able to fix and system is working again – this was an amazing piece of ingenuity from Glenn. We have all decide that if were are ever stuck somewhere and our toilets break, call Glenn or make sure he is with you. Well done Glenn!
CLARKES – Compressor mount cracked. Also the 12 volt switch in their camper knocked on due to the massive vibrations and water leaked into their camper onto some prints they purchased in Kununurra. No damaged to prints and other problems fixed.
Sunday 25th July
We left Miners Pool heading to King Edward River. Extremely rough and corrugated roads.
Stopped for firewood. Heaps around. We used ‘Chopper’ (chainsaw) to cut some wood. The chainsaw has made wood collection so quick and easy. Within 15mins, we can stop cars, chop enough wood for 3 days, store wood and be back on the road.
At this stage Dan’s repair job was holding well.
We reached King Edward River which is the first major watercourse encountered on the Mitchell Plateau and therefore popular with campers. We stayed at Warnmarri campsite which was absolutely beautiful and voted best bush camp so far. We were alongside the river and able to swim in the clear waters and collect water for washing and showering.
Unfortunately while Dan’s welds held, the bracket mount didn’t. It completely cracked. Steve spent the afternoon rewiring the car so the fridge would still run from the main battery and the electric brakes would also run from the main battery. He did a brilliant job and those with us decided Glenn was great for toilets and Steve second to non for rewiring! Steve also discovered the indicator lights needed a repair job as well. It was along afternoon for him.
Monday 26th July
An early start – up at 5.30am and left at 6.00am into Mitchell Falls. We were all glad we had chosen to camp at King Edward and drive into the falls as the road again was awful in parts.
The distance in is only about 80km, but eventually we got to Mitchell Falls area at 9.15am! We were lucky to walk straight onto helicopter flights. We opted for an 18min flight. Myers and Yates in one helicopter, Edwards and Clarkes in another. We don’t think Helen saw much of the flight. She was on the edge and held on to anything she could. Steve M in front held her from the front and Paula held her from the centre. Sorry Helen, but it was funny! Landing was a sight! The falls were magnificent and many photos were taken. We started the walk out in very hot conditions – about 36 degrees.
We stopped at Big Mertens Falls not far from Mitchell Falls where Marie had the ashes of a man who had died and loved this area. His family upon finding out she was heading this way, had asked her to sprinkle part of his ashes over the falls. It was a special moment for all of us
We continued down to little Mertens Falls, looking at some excellent aboriginal art, before sitting on a rock edge behind the falls to have our lunch. It was magic to watch the falls infront of you as we sat behind them. It was so hot that we just stepped under the pelting water to cool off before having a swim in the pool.
We arrived back at Warnmarri just after 5pm, tired, but having spent a wonderful day at Mitchell Falls.
Tuesday 27th July
Just a catch up sleepy day today. After a big bacon and eggs breakfast, we headed to two aboriginal rock art sites. The sites held some fabulous art work, but we think the site about 5km from the King Edward River Crossing, on a track to the right, leads to a series of low rock outcrops where a short walk resulted in a number of Wandjina and Bradshaw figures. We loved them!
Later in the afternoon we headed out a short 200 mtrs from out campsite where Steve took some photos of a gorgeous little waterfall – we are hoping for a good print for the wall when we get home. By the looks of it on the computer, he may have just done it!
Wednesday 28th July
We left King Edward River at about 8.30am and travelled the 100km to Kalumburu over a road that on the whole, wasn’t too bad. Most of it had just been graded. The last third was very average.
There is a $50 Kalumburu Recreation Entry Permit that is valid for 7 days.
We decided to stay at McGowan Island as we had been told it was recently renovated and grassy. It certainly is a scenic spot on the coast of Deep Bay. There were some lovely grassy spots – already taken. We ended up on the beach with no shade, but as we have solar panel this was fine – although the sun was hot. The results of the day’s fishing charter saw Steve M, Kevin, Tricia and Glenn book for the following day- what a surprise!!!!
Later in the afternoon, we went to the rock pools near waters edge – keeping a sharp lookout for crocodiles- and collected oysters. They were plentiful and large.
While the weather cooled slightly with the beautiful sunset overlooking the still waters of the bay, the helicopter sized mozzies also came out in force. We had been warned about these and sand flies! Thankfully the sandflies were not around, but the mozzies were horrible.
Thursday 29th July
Steve M, Tricia, Glenn and Kev left for their fishing charter while Helen and Marie washed and we did very little. Steve discovered the Quantum was cooler inside than outside, so we went inside where Paula read and went to sleep!
Fishing charter back about 1.00pm Good catches for all. Everyone spoke very highly of the day out. Mackeral, Snapper, Red Emperor and Red Saddleback made huge fillets. We had mackerel for tea and it was to die for.
Refuelled in the afternoon. Interesting refuelling area. The truck with diesel in the tank is located on the water's edge. So you drive your car down to the water and fill from there. The cab of the truck is not attached, just the tank! It is Kalumburu after all!
